Saturday, December 15, 2012

Rangoon’s (Yangon's) Central Fish Wholesale Market

During my fourth visit to Rangoon, Burma (Yangon, Myanmar) back in March of 2009, I thought that it would be interesting to get up early and head down to the waterfront to check out Rangoon’s Central Fish Wholesale Market (a.k.a. San Pya Fish Market), which is situated on the banks of the Rangoon River in west Rangoon near the intersection of Kyee Myin Daing Kannar Road and Nat Sin Road. The fishing boats that supply the markets begin pulling up to the dock as early as 2 AM and unload their cargo of fish, which is dumped on to the concrete floor and sorted into 'export' and 'domestic' categories; freshwater fish on ice from the surrounding countryside would also start arriving by truck about the same time. The export quality fish is placed on ice and processed for foreign sale, and the domestic quality fish is moved into a series of warehouses where it is displayed for local sale to restaurants and the vendors that sell in the various open and wet markets in and around Rangoon. I got there about 4:50 AM and found the market to be very busy and quite noisy given the shouts of both sellers and buyers as transactions were negotiated. In addition to witnessing the activities around the loading dock and in the enclosed warehouses, it’s also interesting to stroll amid the aisles between the warehouses and the sidewalks and alleys around the market, where small-time vendors do their business seated upon blankets spread out on the concrete and tarmac, with their small assortment of inventory for the day, sometimes little more than perhaps a dozen fish and a few bowls of shrimp, illuminated by candlelight and small battery-powered florescent lamps in the pre-dawn gloom; also in attendance are a number of food, drink and betel nut vendors set up on the sidewalks and beneath tarpaulin canopies to serve the myriad customers that flock to the market. If you’re planning a visit there, note that things can get a bit grungy, so you'll want to wear some clothes that you don't mind getting a bit soiled (in the haze diffused light of sunrise afterwards, I did noticed some dried muddy splashes of fish run-off on my shorts and sandals from some close calls with quickly-moving wheeled fish carts, and did get bumped a time or two by a passing wet wicker basket of fish), and you will definitely smell like fish by the end of your visit. If you're looking to experience some real local color off the beaten tourist path while in Rangoon, the central fish wholesale market might be just the ticket for you.



















For more on Burma/Myanmar, see my post The Upside of Food Poisoning in Bagan, Myanmar (Pagan, Burma), where staying back at the hotel and taking it easy while recovery from a bout of food poisoning in Bagan Myothit  and a chance encounter with a local artisan in an open field across the road that took me under his wing would result in a very memorable day and evening of experiencing the town and its environs like a local.

Update 11-23-17:

I had heard that the Yangon Central Fish Wholesale Market had relocated, and have recently learned that the new location is on Htee Tan Road in Alone Township, not far South from Nat Sin Road (hat tip to Crystal at Travelers' Choice to Burma).

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Outdoor Vendors near Mandalay’s Zeigyo Central Market

When planning a visit to the historic city of Mandalay, Burma (Myanmar), one should definitely allow time in the itinerary to witness the hustle and bustle amid the morning outdoor produce, spice and dried/fermented fish and meat vendors that line the streets near the Zeigyo Central Market building (west of 84th Street between 26th and 28th Road). For me, it was far more interesting, colorful and much more memorable than the stroll through more sedate indoor general household and dry goods portion of the market, which could be skipped without missing much if one’s time is limited. The market was still quite active when I arrived at 7:30 am, with very few other foreign tourists to be seen (due the lack of available time in their tour packages, according to my guide). Given the coolness of the morning air, most of the vendor women improvise turbans out of scarves, shawls, towels and the like for warmth which, together with their colorful longyis, the swirls, streaks and sometimes intricate patterns of dried yellow thanaka paste (a natural combination sunblock, astringent and moisturizer made from the ground wood of the thanaka tree) applied to their cheeks, and non-matching flannel shirts, makes many of them look like hill tribe members, though some in the market actually appear to be from the Shan, Karen and Pa-O minority tribes based on their ethnic clothing. The sights, aromas (a earthy mix of ripe produce, spices, dried shrimp and fermented fish paste), and the echoing of the hawkers’ calls mixed with the din of stall-side negotiations gives the open market it's charm, and makes it an experience not to be missed.

















For more on Burma/Myanmar, see my post The Upside of Food Poisoning in Bagan, Myanmar (Pagan, Burma), where staying back at the hotel and taking it easy while recovery from a bout of food poisoning in Bagan Myothit  and a chance encounter with a local artisan in an open field across the road that took me under his wing would result in a very memorable day and evening of experiencing the town and its environs like a local.

Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Singapore’s Pulau Ubin (Ubin Island)


Rustic Malay-styled Village House on Singapore's Pulau Ubin

Pulau Ubin (Ubin Island) provides the visitor with a glimpse of Singapore’s former ‘kampong’ (village) heritage, and a welcomed break from the high-rise towers, HBD flats, shopping malls and busy streets that characterize much of Singapore. Located in the Strait of Johor between the northeastern tip of Singapore and the Malaysian state of Johor, Pulau Ubin may be just the day trip to take for those who have been in this most modern and developed of Southeast Asian cities long enough that they crave a little breather from all the hustle, bustle, stylish concrete & glass high-rise office towers and hotels, clusters of government-subsidized multistoried HDB (Housing Development Board) residential flats, and rows of fashionable shopping malls. Pulau Ubin is Singapore done ‘old-school’, a throwback to the kampong (village) days before the city-state became an international center for commerce and finance, and one of the ‘Four Asian Tigers’. The quaint, often stilted wooden houses and old plantations, together with the natural splendor and laid-back attitude, will clear the mind, soothe the soul and recharge one’s batteries for another round of shopping and world-class yet affordable eating at the myriad hawker centers back in the ‘Lion City’. According to local folklore, the island came into being as the result of a challenge between a frog, a pig, and an elephant. They decided to see who could be the first to swim across the Strait of Johor from Singapore to Malaysia, with the losing animals turning into stone; all three animals failed to make it across, with the pig and the elephant becoming Pulau Ubin and the frog becoming Pulau Sekudu (Frog Island). The 1880’s saw the arrival of settlers from Johor and the establishment of a thriving Malay community on the island. Pulau Ubin means ‘Granite Island’ in Malay, and with the arrival of the British on the island came the quarrying of granite, though fishing and farming were the primary occupations of the islanders; the quarries have long since closed, and visitors are barred from access due to safety concerns. The island is home to the Outward Bound Singapore center for outdoor education and leadership development, and the National Police Cadet Corps (NPCC). 

The island is reached from the Changi Point Ferry Terminal jetty (located near the northwest corner of Singapore's Changi International Airport, near the mouth of the Sungai Changi River) via bumboat, with a one-way ticket for the 10 minute trip running SNG $2.50, and the boats leaving once 12 passengers are aboard. I was the first one aboard the next bumboat in line to depart for the island, which was tied backed-up to the jetty so that passengers board and depart from the stern. The aged and well-weathered boat was painted a dull rust color, with a wide medium-light blue stripe painted some distance above the waterline that narrowed and arched upwards near the bow and continued up the raised bow beam that extended upward at an angle above the deck (a common feature seen on boats around Southeast Asia), with the blue paint mostly chipped off near the vicinity of the deck to reveal bare off-white primer. There was a length of covered cabin provided for the ferried passengers, with opposing bench seats running the length of the cabin, with addition uncovered room for passengers (and perhaps some passengers' bicycles) on the rear deck behind the cabin surrounded by some railing. Some additional passengers came aboard after I did, though after several minutes had passed without seeing any prospective customers come out onto the dock and head in our direction, the pilot opted to make the short journey out to Pulau Ubin with less than twelve passengers. Motoring beyond the mouth of the Sungai Changi ('Sungai' being the word for river in the Bahasa Malaysian language), we made our way out into the Strait on a roughly west-northwest heading en route to the Ubin Village jetty, passing orderly lines of sailboats anchored just off the near shore, with a number of anchored kelongs (floating wooden platforms equipped with houseboat-like living accommodations and attached net or mesh-enclosed open pens used for fish farming - a common sight in coastal Southeast Asia) seen in the distance. 

Ma Zu Altar 'Mother Goddess' Shrine Near the Pulau Ubin Visitors Center
Scarecrow Near the Sensory Trail
Scene on the Sensory Trail
Old Building Seen Biking Around Pulau Ubin


Chinese Temple Shrine
Thai Temple Shrine
Walking off to the right as you step off the jetty, you will soon find a small Pulau Ubin Visitors Center with photos and diagrams of the flora and fauna to be found on the island, and across from it near the water's edge at the base of a tree sits the Ma Zu Altar, or 'Mother Goddess' shine, where it was said that seafaring folks and fishermen would pray before her for safety during their journeys. Continuing on and heading left at the island police station, you will see the Sensory Trail, which leads you past specimens of various fruit trees, spices, herbs, traditional medicinal plants and native plants of the mangrove forest (and in my case, a large monitor lizard a bit over two feet in length at the base of a tree). Heading northwest of the jetty along Jalan Ubin past the bike rentals and restaurants, you’ll see the wayang stage used for Chinese operas and some small Buddhist and Confucius shrines, and a bit further on there is also a Thai temple at the north end of Jalan Wat Siam. 

Malaysian-Style Homes on Pulau Ubin






Old Stilted House in the Jungle Off the Paved Road


Pulau Ubin's 'Old-School Singapore' Kampung Vibe
Following Jalan Ubin to the right will take you past a small lagoon flanked by palms, soon to be replaced by more lush jungle-like environs dotted with old ‘kampong’ houses reflecting Malay influences. Continuing north, you can take a right at the junction with Jalan Durian and reach the gravel and dirt roads to Chek Jawa, or you can go straight onto Jalan Sam Heng which soon becomes Jalan Mamam and leads to the Mamam Beach Campgrounds, with the dirt trail to the left at the end of the road leading to some mangroves along a creek that empties into the Strait. Pulau Ubin’s wildlife, natural beauty, old kampong houses and its religious shrines & temples are best enjoyed on two wheels, and bikes of varying quality can be rented for a full or half-day from one of several shops located near the jetty (SNG$2 – 20). There are a few paved roads on the island, though most roads are graveled or dirt; there are mountain biking trail of varying degrees of difficulty on the island. Since my visit to the island, the Ketam Mountain Bike Park, located around the fringe of a quarry on Pulau Ubin, has opened. The 45-hectare park contains 10km of mountain bike trails, consisting of tracks with the 3 out of 5 IMBA ratings and both Dirt Skills and Freeride Skills Parks. There are a limited number of vehicles on the island, but vans or taxis can be hired for touring the island’s attractions if one does not intend on doing any biking.

Chek Jawa Wetlands Coastal Loop Boardwalk
Pulau Ubin is home to the Chek Jawa Wetlands, one of Singapore’s richest ecosystems where six major habitats meet and mix. A visit to the Chek Jawa Visitor Center is a ‘must-do’ while on the island. Chek Jawa is an intertidal area, and is best viewed at low tides of 0.5 meters and below, hence tide tables need to be consulted when planning a visit. The visitors center (8.30am - 6.00pm) includes a viewing jetty, over 1 km of boardwalk comprised of Mangrove and Coastal Loops, and the 21-meter Jejawi Tower located along the Mangrove Loop. Chek Jawa can be reached by hired car, bike or a roughly 40-minute walk from the Pulau Ubin jetty; note that vehicles and bikes must park at a lot located some distance away, and then continue to the center on foot along a wooded trail for about 5 minutes. The Mangrove Loop was interesting, with the sounds of insect, frog and bird calls overlaying the crackling of air bubbles beneath the arched roots and aerial tubes of the mangrove trees at low tide. As for places to sit back and simply chill out on the island, Noordin Beach and Mamam Beach would be likely candidates for hangout spots if one’s aim is relaxation and decompression amid relative peace and quiet (save for the occasional whine of high-bypass turbofans heralding the approach of an inbound flight to Changi) after several hectic days of sightseeing around Singapore. For those who place a premium on communing with nature, Chek Jawa Wetlands is the best place for you to hangout while on the island. A good resource for finding more information on Pulau Ubin and on other areas in Singapore where one can enjoy the great outdoors can be found here: http://www.nparks.gov.sg/cms/

Mangrove Near Mamam Beach, North Pulau Ubin

One thing that was quite interesting during my visit to the island was watching some Outward Bound Singapore grade school-aged youth being given jungle survival training near the Mamam Beach campground in the north. The instructor was a retired ‘Straits Indian’ Singaporean who spent 35 years as a commando in the SAF Spec-Ops Group, training other SAF and visiting foreign commandos in jungle survival. The tattooed, powerfully-built gentleman was passionate about passing on skills and shared wisdom to local kids, whom he felt spend too much time with video games and in shopping malls. He first demonstrated, in a loud Drill Instructor manner sometimes sprinkled with a bit of colorful language, how to kill, clean and prepare a live frog to the assembled group of squeamish and groaning Singaporean school kids. His most memorable quote came while he was detailing the locations and sequence of knife cuts required to maximize the amount of useable meat from a frog carcass: “Remember, if you do this right…you get meat! And if you do this wrong…you get bloody sh*t! And…YOU CAN’T EAT BLOODY SH*T!!!” After finishing with his demonstrator frog, he asked for a volunteer from the audience to come to the front and be walked through the killing and cleaning process with a second live frog. When nobody stepped forward, he pointed to a Singaporean girl of about 15 years of age wearing Muslim head-covering in the first row to be part of the demonstration. “NOOO!!!”, she squealed loudly. “TOO BLOOD-DEE, LAH!!!” After the laughter of her fellow classmates died down, the instructor let her off the hook and performed the task on the second frog himself, after which he proceeded to demonstrate two different methods for manually starting a fire without a flame source using items from a fire-starting kit similar to the one that all of the classes students had been issued. I would later meet up with the instructor and his students again as I biked from Mamam Beach to the Chek Jawa Visitor Center, and had a chance to chat briefly with the instructor while his students were given a short break.

Restaurants and Bike Rental Shops Near the Main Jetty at Ubin Village

Pulau Ubin is revered by the local for its fresh and delicious seafood that can be enjoyed in a laid-back setting at prices lower that those found on the ‘big island’. Though I did not get a chance to sample any of the restaurants on the island (my only meal taking the form of some energy bars and an isotonic sports drink while biking the trails), a number of them are located in the island’s main village along Jalan Ubin (Road) among the bicycle rental shops to the left of the jetty. The ones I glanced at were Cheong Lian Yuen, Ubin First Stop and Season Live Seafood. Ubin First Stop (#42 Jalan Ubin, 11AM – 10PM; closed Wednesdays) is said to be popular and quite good, serving up Chinese, seafood classics like black pepper crab and even some local specialties including wild boar. Season Live Seafood (#59E Jalan Ubin) is located near the water’s edge, with a view of Singapore across the Strait and outdoor seating beneath a large protective canopy for those daily Singapore downpours.

Season Restaurant, Offering a View Across the Strait of Johor
I left the island by late-afternoon, so I can’t really talk to what nightlife Pulau Ubin has to offer. I don’t recall seeing any bars or KTV joints on the island, so the evening’s entertainment would likely be limited to enjoying some beers and fresh seafood with some good company at one of the restaurants in the jetty area until they close for the evening (presumably at 10PM, if Ubin First Stop Restaurant is any indication). If restaurants are the full extent of nightlife on the island, I’d say one could probably do much worse than snagging an outdoor table at Season Live Seafood to enjoy a nice sunset, then hanging around until they shut the lights off and kick everyone out. I neglected to see how late the bumboats back to Singapore run, which could put limits the sampling of Pulau Ubin’s nightlife for ‘day-trippers’.

Looking Across the Strait of Johor to Singapore, Pulau Ubin
Though I only did a day trip to Pulau Ubin, there are some accommodations available if one wants to spend the night on the island. Celestial Resort (previously called Ubin Lagoon Resort) is located in the southwest of the island. Referred to as ‘rustic’ and not rated highly on the web, perhaps low expectations are in order; the rate for two people is quoted as SNG $98 (weekday)/SNG $118 (weekend). Ubin Lodge is said to now be open to the public. Located behind the island police station (coast guard police post) and about a 5-minute walk from the jetty, the chalets were formerly used by civil servants and said to offer a taste of Singapore circa 1960; no info is available, as their web site is currently down for construction. There are three campsites available on the island (Noordin Beach, Mamam Beach and Jelutong Campsite) with no permit required; campers are advised to drop by the Ubin NParks Info Kiosk (at the Jetty) on arrival. Noordin Beach is also said to be quite nice.

The View Looking East from Pulau Ubin Village
Restaurant in Pulau Ubin Village Near the Jetty
Local Kids Near the Bicycle Rental Shops on Pulau Ubin

If one’s travel plans will put them in Singapore for a few days, a half-day spent out on Pulau Ubin is well-worth considering, as it allows a visitor to get a sense of Singapore’s humble beginnings and traditional village-like heritage, and perhaps give the credit cards a little rest.