Monday, July 8, 2013

One Night in Patpong

Patpong 1 Street During the Day


If one mentions Bangkok in the course of a conversation, there’s a pretty good chance that the word association of ‘prostitution’ will immediately be made in the minds of at least some, if not most, of the males within earshot; there is also a high likelihood that the chorus to Murray Head’s classic hit ‘One Night in Bangkok’ will also start playing in the heads of said males. Though Southeast Asia’s ‘City of Angels’ (‘Krung Thep Maha Nakhon’, or simply ‘Krung Thep’ in Thai) contains a number of red light districts, Patpong is perhaps Bangkok’s most famous (or some would say infamous) red light district.

The district, consisting of streets Patpong 1, Patpong 2 and Silom Soi 4, and bracketed by Silom Road and Surawong Road, was established as an entertainment center in the 1960’s catering to US servicemen during the Vietnam War; after the war, Patpong was sustained mainly by tourists seeking the sex shows that they’d always heard tales of, with local Thais tending to spend their money in the brothels, bath houses and massage parlors. At some point in its history, a night market was introduced along Patpong 1 to provide a bit of nighttime legitimacy and generate some family-friendly revenue, with rows of tarp-covered vendor stalls set up in the street from curb to curb between Silom Road and Surawong Road. It has been said that in recent years Patpong has been in the process of moving away from purely sex-based entertainment and more towards upscale clubs and live music venues.

I was able to able to sample a bit of Patpong during our first trip to Thailand back in 2003, both in the evening at a time when the night market and the bars were in full swing and Patpong is at its liveliest, and also during the subsequent day when it’s relatively lifeless, especially during the ‘dry period’ that (at the time) ran from late-morning to mid-afternoon, during which no alcohol could be sold. Even before my first trip to Southeast Asia in 2000, I had learned of the 1994 book ‘Patpong Sisters – An American Woman’s View of the Bangkok Sex World’ by Cleo Odzer, and was intrigued enough to buy a copy from Amazon. The book provided a somewhat dated primer on Patpong, so I had an idea of what to expect when I got there (including the part to be wary of rip-off bars); unfortunately, Odzer spent too much of the book recounting her love affair with a Thai tout, and not enough time on the nitty-gritty of what goes on in the bars. I will insert a disclaimer that, as a married man, I did not partake in any activities beyond having a couple of beers, buying a bar girl a couple of non-alcoholic beverages of her choosing, and tipping the said bar girl (with no physical compensation request nor expected) and the on-stage talent during their post-performance rounds through the audience.

Khaosan Road Bar Girl (Included for Reference due to Lack of Patpong Night Pictures)

We took separate cars as we drove in from one of Bangkok’s numerous suburbs, with the guys in one car and the ladies in another; my brother-in-law had advised me that I should leave the camera behind, as many of the bars would not let me bring it inside. We were lucky enough to find a parking spot on one of the sois (side streets) off of Silom Road several blocks away from Patpong 1, and made our way along the busy sidewalk that flanks Silom and the elevated tracks of Sky Train that occupies its median strip. As we neared Patpong 1 the sidewalk became busier, with people stopping to check out the goods of some assorted street vendors displayed on small folding tables, portable racks and leaning sheets of pegboard. We waited near the line of barricades and parked motorcycle taxis whose mounted drivers puffed cigarettes and waited for fares at the intersection of Silom and Patpong 1 for the ladies to show up before entering the night market. When they had at last arrived, we decided to follow them for a while as they browsed among the vendor stalls, after which we would leave them to do their shopping while we (my brother-in-law, a male Thai extended family member who would serve as our translator and local ‘fixer’ for our little adventure, and myself) would head off to check out one of the bars on Patpong 1.

The Patpong night market was busy the evening of our visit, more so than the Chiang Mai night market that I had been to earlier, and at times the aisles between the stalls got quite congested. Western tourist seemed to far number the Asian tourists and local Thai customers, and the din of the many negations and conversations in various languages at times competed with the bass-heavy sounds of music emanating from the various go-go bars. The market had a little something for everyone, with the offerings ranging from traditional Thai and ethnic minority hill tribe arts and handicrafts, hand-made jewelry, bargain-priced luggage and travelers’ accessories, cheap electronic and humorous printed Tee-shirts, to knock-off designer clothing and handbags, pirated movies, CD’s and software, and fake Rolex watches, with an assortment of food vendors on the perhipery.

It was an interesting juxtaposition seeing families strolling together and browsing through the goods displayed beneath fluorescent illumination in the rows of canopied vendors stalls that occupied the tarmac, while on the sidewalks seedy-looking touts beckoned and alluring Thai women in their mid-twenties dressed like short-skirted school girls (top blouse buttons un-done) flaunted and flirted as they tried to entice the wandering and gawking gentlemen in to check out their respective go-go bars. The opened doors of the go-go bars offered tantalizing views of sultry brown-skinned bikinied beauties with numbered badges dancing on the stages to the throbbing beats of dance music; venturing into cover-charged upstairs portion of some of the go-go bars, one could witness exhibitions of those feats of female anatomical skill that are often talked about.

We were not more than a couple of stalls deep into the market when my wife spotted an assortment of watches on display. She had heard tales of the counterfeit Rolex watches that can be had for cheap (which was the main reason she was excited about visiting the Patpong night market), but at a glance look to be the real thing. My wife looked for the particular fake Rolex that she wanted, but didn’t see any Rolex watches on display. My wife, together with a Thai extended family member who would be able to assist if the language barrier became an issue during the transaction, waved the vendor woman over and asked if she had any of the fake Rolex watches for sale. The woman told her that it’s actually illegal to sell counterfeit merchandise, but then after giving a couple of wary side-glances to make sure that no police officers were nearby, leaned in closer and asked my wife which fake Rolex model she was interested in. The vendor woman then beckoned the ladies to follow her back to a narrow secluded corridor formed between the draped sheets of tarpaulin cloth that separated her stall from the adjacent row of vendor stalls behind her; the illicit ‘forbidden fruit’ aspect of the pending transaction made it too intriguing to miss out on, so I followed the three back between the stalls.

The vendor next reached her arm back between two sheets of tarp and produced a somewhat crumpled brown paper sack; she unrolled the sack and hastily fished a watch out of it while looking warily over her shoulder and handed it to my wife. My wife inspected it and asked if she had one with a solid silver band instead of the two-toned model. The vendor woman felt around in the bag, pulled out another watch out of the bag just enough to be able to see the band, then put it back into the bag and fished around some more, all the while throwing wary glances back towards the opening of her hidden showroom. After three attempts she located the watch that my wife was looking for; after which we emerged from the stuff confines of the corridor and entered into the bargaining phase out in the public view, with my wife satisfied with the deal she was able to get.

At that point, we told the ladies that we would meet them at the intersection of Patpong 1 and Surawong Road in about an hour, and went our separate ways. Right off the bat, we were approached by a rather thuggish Thai tout whose slicked-back hair, scraggly mustache and goatee, pierced earring and black leather vest over a short-sleeve white T-shirt to show off his inked arms suggested that he was going for the ‘Southeast Asian Gangsta’ look, motioned to the go-go bar behind him and asked us if we wanted to go in for a look; our ‘fixer’ dismissed him with a wave of the hand and we continued on towards Surawong Road. As we walk, my brother-in-law told me that during his first visit to Patpong, he was taken to one of the upstairs bars where they featured live sex shows, in which a Thai man and women would have intercourse on the stage, running through a variety of positions during the performance; he then continued that such a performance was now (temporarily) strictly forbidden, given that Bangkok was hosting the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) Summit at the time of our visit.

A bit further down the sidewalk, we came to a stop at a seemingly non-descript doorway set back a short distance from the face of the building. Our fixer told us to wait while he went in to talk to the person manning the door. A short while later, he reemerged and motioned for us to follow him through the door and upstairs; he added that he told them that he was a Thai businessman (true story, as he is, in fact, a businessman), and that we were customers that he was entertaining, so that we were able to enter the club without paying the normal cover charge. At the top of the stairs, we walked through another set of doors to the left and entered the bar. Though there was no obvious signage out front, we were told that the name of the bar was ‘Connection’; no doubt the bar has long since closed, if not the building totally gutted or raised and turned into some trendy bar and restaurant.

The general lighting inside was a bit dim and of a reddish-amber hue. Against the near wall to the right was a section of padded bench seating upon which three Thai girls in skimpy black bikinis with badges of white numbering set against a red background pinned at the left hip sat. There were a couple of booths that occupy the corner of the near wall and part of the right wall, which included a hallway dimly lit by reflected florescent light. The working part of the bar was in front of us, with shelves of liquor bottles and a few rows of stemmed wine and brandy glasses hanging above the bar. The bar counter extended to the left to accommodate a lengthy row of bar stool; behind the extended bar counter was the elevated performing stage, with steps at both ends for the girls to access the stage. To the left were some round tables and chairs big enough to accommodate two and some booths against the wall.

As a hostess led us to some vacant stool at the bar, six of the black bikinied and red-badged bar girls danced along the right side of the stage as rock music played on the house sound system. At the left end of the stage, a bottomless bar girl entered and walked to the front and stood before the audience with her legs spread moderately apart; as we settled into our stools and ordered our first Singha Beers, the girl on stage then performed her assigned ‘vaginal trick’. It involved extracting an exceedingly long string of fake flowers that appeared to be circles of thin white plastic folded and bunched such that, upon leaving said vagina, they expanded to take the form of small carnations (or would ‘lilies of the valley’ be more appropriate?) beneath the illumination of a black light above the stage, which I guess was a rather creative take on the concept of ‘de-flowering’ a girl. Despite the natural or developed talents of the girls and the obvious effort put into crafting and executing the performances, the tricks never quite manage to come off as sexy or erotic, but still managed to entertain given their novelty value (sort of a “Well, now; there’s something you don’t see a vagina doing everyday…”).

Within a minute of sitting down, and while the flowers were still blooming up on stage, two attractive Thai bar girls came up to me, one on each side, and began to simultaneously caress (in descending order) my neck, shoulders, arms and the tops of my thighs. I gave them both a friendly ‘Sawadee krap”, a smile and a wai (placing one’s palms and fingertips together with the fingertips brought up to lightly contact the face at just about nose level, and bowing slightly). They broke out in high-pitched giggles, and returned in unison my wai with a sweet and lilting harmony of “Sawadee kha!” They continued caressing me as my eyes returned to the stage to see the final arms’ length or so of flowers be harvested from the field (knowing full-well that the field would likely be plowed and seeded by early morning.)

The flower girl then gathered her stringed harvest and placed it in a tip box that she later carried through the audience, as the other girls on stage continued to dance through the end of the song; generally, at least some of the men in the audience would put a 10 or 20 Baht note into the box to show their appreciation for the performance. The hand of the bar girl on the top of my left thigh (Badge # 41, whose single-syllable nick-name I later learned was Bui; Thai women have a habit of adopting short, cute nick-names that they used instead of their often-long legal first names) began moving towards the inside of my thigh; as I was sitting with my legs together, she tried to slip her fingers down between them so that she could rotate her hand to cup my crotch, and finally said into my ear, “Spread legs; can’t reach…” I responded that she didn’t need to do that, as I was only here to check out the show, and nothing more. She respected my wishes and brought her hand back to the top of my thigh.

The next act on stage involved a girl opening a soda bottle with her vagina, with the uncapping process dramatically prolonged and timed so that the cap didn’t come off until two-thirds of the way through the song, after which the girl poured the contents of the bottle into a glass that she had with her. It was during this performance the Bui tapped me on my left arm to get my attention, and then pointed in turn to herself, to me, and to the girl to my right, and finally pointed upwards with a devilish grin, then leaned closer to my ear and said, “We go upstairs now for s*** and f***?” The question took me a bit by surprise; my gaze shifted from Bui to the girl on my right, who stood grinning and gave me a little nod of encouragement, then turned back to Bui, who maintained her devilish grin while awaiting my answer. With a sigh and a smile, I politely declined the generous and very intriguing offer, figuring that even just refusing offer of a ménage à trios with two sexy Thai bar girls would make for a good story to tell the guys back at work. Shortly after that, the girl sitting to the right tapped me on the shoulder to distract me from the stage and, by bulging her cheek with her tongue and forming a circle with her thumb and index figure, which she moved back and forth repeatedly in front of her open mouth, pantomimed yet another offer of servicing, then pointed her finger upwards with a smile. After receiving yet another polite refusal from me, she walked away from the bar and approached a small group of men that had just entered the bar. It was as she was walking away that I noticed that my brother-in-law and Thai relative had taken their beers and wandered off, though they had both probably already seen enough of the shows and had no reason to sit ring-side for yet another one. I glanced back to Bui, who beamed up at me with a sweet smile as she nuzzled a bit closer and playfully rubbed and patted my thigh in feigned affection; I bought her a drink (she ordered a glass of Coke) and we continued to watch the evening’s entertainment unfold.

The follow-up act involved a girl slowly extracting from her vagina a long string containing about two dozen extra-large needles that looked as though they would be used to mend a fisherman’s net, tied off in roughly 4” increments; she squatted with her crotch directed towards the left-front corner of the stage, so that as each needle emerged eyelet-first from the labia, the audience could see it swing down to the vertical, causing the ever-lengthening string of needles to sway (presumably for dramatic effect.)  Next, a girl came out on the stage and similarly squatted with her legs spread to the audience. As the stage lights dimmed slightly and a black light came on, the girl inserted two fingers into her vagina and extracted about 4 inches of what looked to be thin opaque white tape. Using her thumbs and index fingers and a hand-over-hand motion, she proceeded to spool out perhaps 20 feet of glowing white tape like a human ticker-tape machine.

Seeing as how Bui had chosen to continue sitting with me instead of going off to find a guy who would pay her bar fine and take her back to his hotel for a much better return on her night of work, I figured it would be appropriate to tip her; when I politely presented the 100 Baht note to her with two hands, she smiled playfully and partially pulled down the left cup of her bikini top, and indicated by pointing downward with her pursed lips that she wanted me to slip the note between her breast and the bikini cup. As we sat back on our bar stool while the next perform was preparing to take the stage, I asked Bui if she performed any of the vagina tricks; she replied that, no, she was one of the girls that only danced during the performances, and that it was almost time for her to dance for a set of several songs.

At that moment, the sounds of synthesizer and string ensemble began fade in on the sound system, which brought Bui to attention and put the hint of a smile on her face, which broadened as the familiar bass riff to Bon Jovi’s “Livin’ On A Prayer” began. As the drums and talk-box guitar joined in, Bui began nodding her head in time to the music, then followed the beat of the song by first drumming with a single palm on the bar counter, and then with alternating palms as she really started getting into it. Her enthusiasm for the song was infectious, and I soon found myself nodding along to the rhythm and tapping out the beat on the bar counter. Up on stage, a girl held the non-pyrotechnic ends of two sparklers angled slightly apart with her vagina, and was attempting to ignite the sparklers with lighter. Once she got them going, she worked her hips in time to the music and created streak-like arcs in the air with the brightly-burning tips of the sparklers, and raised the concern that a wayward spark could have ignite a pubic forest fire. I glanced over to Bui, who was bobbing and shaking her head as she drummed on the bar counter and sang along to the chorus with reckless abandon. Granted, the Patpong bar girls are masterful manipulators of the male ego, and are virtuosos at plucking strings for pay, but witnessing her display of joy over a Bon Jovi song gave her a sort of innocence that came off as endearing.

The next girl to take the stage carried with her a square wooden props/tips box that contained a drinking glass, three ping pong balls and a tube assumed to contain lubricant. I figured that I would soon be seeing vaginally-launch ping pong balls flying through the air, perhaps with someone in the audience given a paddle and asked to return her serve in a friendly game of ‘Patpong Ping Pong’. The girl took the ball and the tube from the prop box and proceeded to apply some lubricant to each of the balls and distribute it over the surfaces with her fingers. She then took the drinking glass and positioned it on the floor in front of her. With her legs slightly apart, she brought her knees together and squatted until the top of her thighs was at about a 45° angle to the floor, and appeared to sight down her legs to check her alignment with the glass. With the setup of the trick complete, she then began her performance by spreading her legs, inserting a ping pong ball in her vagina; bringing her legs together, she slowly push the ball out by using muscle control (much like a hen laying an egg), settled it into the trough formed by her joined thigh, and made it roll off her legs and into the drinking glass. She was ‘three for three’ by the end of her performance, which came off as a bit anti-climactic; personally, I would have preferred to see her shooting the ping pong balls for height and distance, instead of just dribbling them.

Near the end of the ping pong action, Bui told me that it was going to be her turn to dance and stage next, and that she would have to leave now. To show my appreciation for her time and hospitality, I offered her another 100 Baht note. Rather than having me place it in her bikini top, she tucked her thumbs beneath the waistband of her bikini bottom and rotated them downwards, exposing the upper portion of her closely-groomed Bermuda Triangle. “You put here…” She said with a playful grin. I thanked her for sitting with me and gave her a parting wai, which she returned with a giggle, and then gave me a quick hug and peck on the cheek before hurrying off to the right side of the stage. Just about the time that Bui left, the ping pong girl began to make her rounds of the left side of the stage; I flagged her down and added a 20 Baht note to the collection of other well-worn and sweat-dampened notes, a half tube of lubricate and three gleaming ping pong balls in a grease-smudged glass.

The was a brief lull in the action as the stage dancers stood waiting for the next performance set to begin, as the rock music on the sound system continued to play at a level perhaps a notch or two below ‘performance volume’. Bui was second from the left in the dancer line and chatted animatedly with the girl to her right. During a break in the conversation, Bui scanned the audience and when she saw me, she smiled at me then excitedly turned to her right and tapped the girl next to her arm, and pointed me out. Bui, already giggling at that point, gave me a very respectful wai; when I returned the gesture, the other dancers all started cracking up; yes, the laugh was at my expense, but it was all in the name of ‘sanuk’ (having fun). For the next act, a girl came out on the stage with two cigarette held side-by-side between her fingers and a lighter; she held them to her mouth to get them lit, and then squatted towards the audience. She placed her left hand behind her so that she was able to arc her back and thrust her pelvis upward to afford everyone a clearer view; she took a final puff of the two cigarettes and then placed the filtered tips into her vagina and, by contracting (or relaxing?) her muscles, was able to produce bright cherries on both cigarettes. She did this multiple time, and as the lengths of the ashes could be seen growing, I thought I would inject a bit of humor and picked up a nearby ashtray, which I then held up as if to offer it to her; apparently the performer and at least a few of the dancers (including Bui) got the joke, because they burst out laughing when they saw it. It’s all about the sanuk, right?

The next act was by far the most impressive (and a-peeling) of that night in Patpong, and made the visit all the more fruitful. The bottomless girl came out onto the stage with a large yellow banana that appeared to be at a level of ripeness where it would still be firm. My first thought was that her performance would simple be to demonstrate her ability to fit most, if not all, of the banana into her vagina. To my surprise, she peeled the banana and broke it into roughly two equal lengths. She laid on her back and, by supporting herself with her feet and a hand at the base of her spine, arched her back and raise her pelvis, such that her vagina was pointing directly up. She then appeared to relax a bit and inserted one of the banana halves into her vagina to its full length, settled into position and then abruptly slapped the opened palm of her free hand between her navel and her solar plexus, was able to shoot it up to about three or four feet in the air…and then caught the banana piece on the way down! She repeated the feat with the second half of the banana, and achieved a height of closer to four or five feet (in my estimation), and again caught it! Given the difference in weight between a ping pong ball and a banana section, in my book the peeled half-banana should replace the ping pong ball as the unofficial mascot of Patpong.

If the banana launch was the most impressive performance of the evening, then the award  for the most whimsical performance of the evening goes (envelope, please)…’P**** Write Letter’. I know, vaginal penmanship is not a very marketable skill especially in this economy, but the performance had ‘sanuk’ written all over it. The girl that performed the routine seemed to be a perfect match for the task at hand; the other performers had a general similarity in build (slim and toned), facial features and hair color/styles, and a somewhat coolness or reserved nature in their conveyed stage personalities; this girl stood out from the others not only physically (a bit short & chubby, full-faced, hair permed, dyed some unnatural color and highlight-streaked), but also in the decidedly jolly, outgoing, bawdy and fun-loving nature of her stage personality that came across in spades. She strutted out onto the stage bottomless with a prop/tip box that contained partial roll of toilet paper, a couple of black Magic Markers, and a couple of letter-sized pieces of paper rolled to fit within the box, with a piece of cardboard to act as backing for the paper. I could tell from her body language that she was looking to engage the audience on a one-on-one level and inject a bit of raunchy humor into the routine (a sort of Thai take on burlesque) and she seemed to be looking at me right from the start. “You! You! I write letter for you, okay?!” She stood at the edge of the stage and pointed to me over the head of a bartender that was wiping down my section of counter; her voice had a husky quality that suggested many conversations shouted in order to compete with the bar’s sound system, or a penchant for cigarettes and Hong Tong Whisky shots. “I write letter for you…okay?!” “Okay, you write letter for me…” I replied.

She took some steps back from the edge of the stage to give her some working room and placed the backing cardboard and a sheet of paper on the floor in my line of view. She took one of the Magic Markers out and wrapped a small length of toilet paper around the end of it. She took the cap off the pen and positioned herself over the center of the paper, then partially squatted to insert the toilet paper-sheathed end of the pen into her vagina. She squatted deeper until the felt tip of the pen just lightly touched the paper at the desired point. By carefully coordinating the translation and rotation of the paper with the graceful swiveling of her pelvis she proceeded to pen my letter. At one point during the performance, she appeared to stop and appraise her work, then adjusted the position of the paper and got back to writing.

At the end of the performance, she came directly over with her prop/tip box in hand, beaming with pride in the quality of her own work, to present me with my letter, “See?! See?! I write letter for you! See?! You see?! I even draw p**** for you!” Sure enough, in reasonable cursive writing were the words ‘Welcome to Patpong’ above and to the left of a decidedly ‘freehand’ drawing of a vagina topped with a tuft of pubic hair. I thanked her for her ‘letter of welcome’ and tipped her 50 Baht. I knew at the time that there was very little likelihood that I could catch any STD’s from touching a potentially contaminated piece of paper bare-handed (and I didn’t bring any rubber finger cots with me), but just to be on the safe side I left the paper on the counter, and hoped that she wouldn’t be offended if she came across it before the end of her shift. Looking back, I should have brought the letter back with me (perhaps grasping it by the corners with bar napkins?), as it would have been a very interesting conversation piece to frame or put in a scrapbook.

As the next act walked out, the stage lights dimmed and the black lights came on, and when the plastic flowers again began to bloom in the valley I figured that the bar would probably recycle the same sequence of performances that I had just seen. At that same time, my brother-in-law and Thai relative walk up and also suggested that we had seen all of the performances that were on the evening’s menu, and that we should go out and meet up with the ladies on the Surwong Road sided of Patpong 1, as our stated one hour had already ended some twenty minutes ago; thankfully, the ladies didn’t even mention our tardiness.

The Bangkok Snake Farm. It was closed for a national holiday, but the staff will let you in anyway if you give them enough money. Yes, that is a venomous viper, and they do have anti-venom handy if something bad happens.


Erawan Shrine

I would have another brief sample of Patpong the following afternoon. My wife was going on a fabric buying expedition with our Bangkok hosts, which did not sound interesting to me. As their first stop was going to be near the south end of downtown, I had them drop me off near the west end of Silom Road in the vicinity of the Mama Umi Devi Temple. Starting from there, I would spend from late morning to late afternoon on foot exploring that part of downtown. I planned on lunch and a couple of beers in Patpong before checking out the Bangkok Snake Farm, then pass through Lumphini Park and head up Ratchadamri Road to Arawan Shrine, then just wander as the spirit moved me until late afternoon, when I would to a taxi to Makro Bangbon Supermarket to meet back up with my wife and our hosts.

Rounding the corner at Silom and Patpong 1 and having the memories of the prior night still fresh in my head, I was surprised how drab and boring the street looked when the bright multicolored neon lighting of the night is replaced with the dull light cast by an overcast early afternoon sky, and the entrances of the go-go bars are encased in steel rollup doors and shrouded by extended sections of padlocked steel gating. Outside of a few odd vendor cart doing scant business and some deliveries being made, not much was happening on the street. I hung a right at Surawong and then walked back along Patpong 2, which I had not visited the nigh before. The setting was pretty much the same as it was  on Patpong 1. I figured that I’d grab a beer at one of the opened bars and consider my options for lunch. I walked over to one on the left side of the street that had a narrow curbside patio in front with two Thai women idling behind the bar counter. When I ordered a Singha Beer, to my surprise they told me no, and explained that we were still in the late-morning to mid-afternoon dry period when alcohol couldn’t be sold to the public. I had encountered this type of public alcohol law in London back in 1985, and thought that it was stupid back then. (I would later encounter another one of Thailand’s stupid public alcohol laws during a one-day layover in Bangkok in December of 2007, when I could not get the shot of Mekong Whisky and Singha Beer that I wanted because there was an election in process and liquor sales are banned during the voting period, and the law applies to EVERYONE, not just Thai Nationals.)

Not getting the beer I wanted, I decided to head over to Silom Road where I remembered seeing a KFC restaurant (I really liked the spicy chicken strips that they sold in Thailand at the time). As I walked a ways along Patpong 2, I was approached by what may have been a retired bar girl or perhaps a current ‘bar auntie’ or street prostitute. She looked to be in her 60’s, but dressed like a ‘working girl’ in her early to mid-twenties; she wore a low-cut top that bundled and uplifted her amble bust and resulted in a prominent wrinkled cleavage that was eye-catching for all the wrong reasons, with age-inappropriately tight faded denim jeans, high heels and too much makeup over too heavy a base of foundation that failed to effectively cover the ravages of time. That being said, she seemed friendly enough when she stopped to engage me in a bit of small talk, during which I learned that she had been in Patpong for a long time and has a son who lives here in Bangkok. She then told me about a bar that I should check out that was located just up the street; I responded that I had already check out a bar in that direction, and as we were still in the ‘dry period’ there wouldn’t be much use checking out a bar, but ended up giving her a non-committal ‘maybe later’ before we parted company.

I made my KFC run and got my spicy chicken fix in the form of a sandwich with a Pepsi in lieu of a beer, and headed back along Patpong 2 in the direction of Surawong, which I would follow to get to the Snake Farm. About midway along its length, I again met with the bar auntie. She asked if I would check out the bar she wanted to show me. There was still over an hour left to go in the dry period, but I figured okay, why not just humor her? She led the way, telling me it’s just up ahead; of course, it turned out to be the place that I first stopped at in search of beer. When I mention this to the bar auntie, she says that I have to go inside through the door to the left of the bar counter to really check the place out. The two girls I had seen earlier at the bar seem to know her as we walked up, which made me think that she had some stake in the place or perhaps did some part-time touting for them; one of the girls behind the counter said something in Thai to the bar auntie and came around to opened the door for me.

I entered what looked to be the anteroom of a massage parlor or brothel (which can be one in the same), where ten or so girls in heavy makeup and typical  bar/street girl attire stood together in the corner of the room throwing seductive smiles and poses to a solo Western male tourist, who looked over the group with what appeared to be apprehension and suspicion written all over his face, as a middle-aged mama-san did her best to coax him to pick one of the girls and head off into one of the back rooms. There was an awkward silence as he seemed to struggle at a decision, but then renewed suspicion, followed by anxiety, agitation and angry seemed to wash over him as he abruptly turned and stormed out of the room. The girls and the mama-san then turned their attention to me. The mama-san asks if I want to pick a girl, and I told her no, that I was just here to check the place out and nothing more. One of the girls in the front, slender with long legs clad in tight faded jeans, stepped forward and gazed up at me with her almond eyes, and after a few seconds of solid eye contact between us, I felt her hand cup my groin; caught by surprise, I stepped back and shook my head, saying, “Uh…That’s okay”, letting her know that I wasn’t interested. “What you mean ‘that okay’?” she asked. “I’m only here to look” I responded. Things started to get awkward, and the vibe just didn’t feel right in the place; it then dawned on me that the girls in front of me might actually be post-op (or even pre-op) lady boys, and that this place might be a katoey brothel or massage parlor (something that one would expect to find on Silom Soi 4, a.k.a. Patpong 3), and I decided that it was time to move on to the Snake Farm.

My brief sample of Patpong proved to be both interesting and memorable, with some of those memories coming back during my viewing of The Hangover Part II (especially given the cell phone photos that appear in the closing credits). Perhaps next time I’m in Bangkok I’ll have to do a brief sample of Nana Plaza and Soi Cowboy.

I don’t know where Bui (#41) is today, but I hope she’s doing well and wish her the best.


For more on Thailand, see my more recent post: Bangkok's Khaosan Road, and Temple Ruins in Ayutthaya - Part I: A Khaosan Road State of Mind

Sunday, June 30, 2013

Glimpses of Poverty and Hardship in Siem Reap

A Squatter's Village on the Banks of the Siem Reap River near Siem Reap's Old Market

In my earlier wanderings through the section of Siem Reap where my hotel was located, I had become intrigued with a rustic collection of stilted thatched huts that sat on the far bank where the Siem Reap River curves to run parallel with Sivatha Street. As I had some time to kill in the afternoon before meeting up with my guide and driver to visit more of the Angkor temples, I decided to walk upriver about 300 meters and take the bridge to the other side so that I could backtrack and wander through the village-like enclave to take some photos. As I walked along the opposing bank’s narrow tarmac path in the direction of the huts, I came upon a Cambodian youth that looks to be in his late teens, or perhaps even early twenties, who was missing one leg at about mid-thigh (no doubt due to stepping on a hidden landmine or a piece of unexploded ordnance) and supporting himself with a crutch. I had remembered seeing him amid the vendors selling tee-shirt, handcraft, ‘krama’ checkered scarf and mass-produced souvenir at Psar Chaa (Siem Reap’s old market) the previous day, as he observed me trying to extricate myself from a group of street children that had encircled me and were begging for handouts; he appeared to remember me given the smile of recognition he flashed as we made eye contact.

Continuing onwards, I next came across a group of three middle-aged men, also apparent landmine victims, who were standing together and talking a little ways off of the path near my intended destination; I saw that the two of the men which were clearest in view of the group were both missing a leg and supporting themselves with single crutches, and that the one that was partially view appeared to be missing part of his forearm. The three slowly swiveled their heads to track me with their gazes as I approached, and as they slipped from my field of view in passing, one of them shouted, “Hello…Hello…Hello…” (In my travel experience, a single ‘hello’ generally indicates friendliness, where as three ‘hellos’ in succession tends to mean ‘I want to sell you something, or hire out my services, or give me a handout, or attempt to lead you into some sort of scam’.) As I did not have that much free time remaining before having to return to the hotel and preferred to use my time taking photos instead of engaging them in conversation, I simply gave a friendly wave and smiling nod in their direction and continued on my way.

At the end of a section of brick wall was a dirt footpath lead from the tarmac walkway to the collection of huts. As I stepped off the tarmac and began to make my way along the path towards the huts, to my surprise two naked, barefoot and dusty Cambodia boys of about 4 years of age quickly rounded the corner of the nearest hut and ran up to me, jumping up and down and running in circles around me while laughing with glee. As the kids continued their display of excitement over a foreigner coming into the midst, I glanced to the left and noted that the three middle-aged amputees that I had passed earlier were now advancing in my direction. As I turn back towards the riverside hutment, I saw what looked to be an impoverished mother coming up the path from the village holding a nude, seemingly under-nourished baby cradled in one arm, and gripping an aged and empty plastic baby bottle in the other. It is then that I realized that what I took to be a photogenic little hamlet surrounded by the more modern structures of suburban Siem Reap was more likely a squatter’s shantytown, and the quaint setting that from a distance had conveyed an almost idyllic quality, had sudden taken on an edginess that put me on the defensive and put out of mind the thoughts of the interesting pictures that I would likely be able to take in the hamlet.

The mother, who said something in Khmer to the two giggly and frolicking kids that prompted them to run back to the stilted hut, pleaded in choppy English for money so that she could feed her baby. Before I could even speak, she pulled  down the neckline her soiled and thread-bare top to just above nipple-level to reveal the contour of her ribs visible beneath the taught brown skin tinned with a sheen of perspiration between her flat and sagging breasts while she looked at me with desperate eyes. “No milk…No milk…Baby not eat!” Seeing that the woman was in dire straights, but realizing that the three approaching men were equally in need and would be hard to dismiss without offering them something, I reluctantly pulled out the first of the 10,000 Khmer Riel (about USD$ 2.50) paper bills out of the front zipped pocket of my cargo pants and handed it to the woman. She then thanked me and then stepped back to watch my dealings with the others that had already converged around me.

Next, one of the middle-aged landmine leg amputees (san prosthetic limbs, as was the case for all of them), approached me and extended his non-crutch supporting hand palm-up; wordlessly, he looked up me with a toothy grin, then looked back down to his open palm before gazing back up at me as he waited for me to place the donation in his hand, thanking me in English when I did. The transaction with the next man, who was missing his left leg, proceeded pretty much the same as the prior man, except before I handed him the money, with the crutch still secured under his left arm pit, he grasped the front left end of his tee shirt and rotated his left forearm up so as to raise his shirt on the left side of his body, revealing a darkly-discolored opened hand-sized depression on his abdomen centered between his waist and lower rib, with the surrounding flesh speckled with small shrapnel scars. “Bomb…Bomb…” he said as an explanation. The final donation made during the encounter (and the final 10,000 Riel note in my pocket) had the most visually dramatic impact. The man was missing both his arms (perhaps setting off a land mine while working in the field?), but the remainder of the arms were not cleanly prepped for future prosthesis. Rather, the forearms were severed along a shallow plane at perhaps about a 25 degree angle to the centerline of the arm, running from the inside of the elbow to roughly just forward of where the wrist should have started, with dark scars where the skin had been sparsely stitched back together. Despite the loss of his hands and most of his forearms and the suffering he had no doubt had to endure as a result of the traumatic injury, he accepted my donation (which his friend took and held for him) with a very warm and pleasant smile and an ‘aw kohn’ (‘thank you’ in Khmer). I ended up distributing all of the cash I had on me (40,000 Cambodia Riel = USD $10) among the four of them in a fairly brief span of time. I glanced at my watch and came to the realization that I was short on both time and the resolve to continue walking into the village to take photos, and decided to head back to the hotel after first taking the above photo of the village-like enclave.

I turned as I shut off the camera and placed it back in my hip pocket, and as I raised my head to start up the trail I met the eyes of the Cambodian teenager with the missing leg that I had seen on earlier my way in. I told him that I had already given away all the cash that I had, and that I was sorry that I didn't have anything left to give him. I’m not sure if he just didn’t speak English or perhaps was deaf and mute, but he silently looked up at me with imploring eyes and tapped the extended open palm of his crutch-supporting arm as if to say ‘please, can’t you give me anything?’ I held up empty palms and shook my head while I again told him slowly, emphatically and loudly (as people often do when visiting a foreign country and only knowing how to say ‘please’, ‘thank you’ and ‘where’s the bathroom’ in the local tongue…as if that would help) that I was sorry, but I didn’t have anything. He gave me a look of disappointment as I stepped onto the thin veneer of tarmac the covers the riverside trail and started the walk back to the hotel. It is only about 10 seconds later that I heard the alternating flop of a sandal and the dull wooden tap of a crutch on the tarmac as he began to follow me. I stopped to reiterate that I didn’t have anything to give him twice more on my way upriver to the Pithnou Street bridge, and at least three more times in the downriver direction along Pokambor Avenue. He even followed me (despite my urgent warnings that it would be dangerous to do so) across the busy Sivatha Street which, given the volume of car, truck, motorcycle and bicycle traffic is tough enough to try to cross with two good legs as it is (sorry…that was pretty crass). I felt terrible by the time I got back to my hotel, as this poor kid had been keeping pace with me for some 800 meters by then. Thankfully, my guide and driver were waiting for me at the hotel so we could tour the temple ruins of Preah Khan, and when I informed them who the person was following me and that I did not have any money to give him, my driver was kind enough to give the person a bit of money to compensate him for following me.

A Similar Squatter's Encampment Down-River as viewed from Sivatha Street




















    
The encounter was more than a little bit eye-opening and sobering for me, hardly the pleasant experience one normally desires and anticipates when on vacation; this is one of the realities of a visit to Siem Reap (and Cambodia in general), and one should be prepared to experience the unfavorable aspects of the country (or any country in the Third World, for that matter) first-hand and deal with it. At times, you are likely to witness scenes of poverty, hardship and the devastating effects of land mines evidenced by the missing limbs of some of those that you encounter on the streets begging for handouts or trying to selling postcards to passing tourists. You may have a single child come up to you on the street and start begging for food or money within the view of other children, and in an instant you may soon find yourself suddenly surrounded by a group of six or more kids with their hands out and begging in unison; as you try to walk away, there’s a fair chance that they will follow along and continue with their pleas for money, making you the center of unwanted attention. Though possibly a well-honed and practiced act meant to evoke sympathy on the part of the tourist, some of the children affect a zombie-like slow monotone voice when they deliver their pleas for a handout, and let their jaws and arms hang slack as if they could collapse to the ground at any moment. Admittedly, if you travel with a tour group and stay in the nicer hotels by the airport or the fancier resort hotels in town with private grounds set back from the public streets and sidewalks, you may not be as exposed to the unfavorable aspects of the city.

The solo male traveler to Siem Reap can anticipate the occasional solicitation by prostitutes on the streets that are frequented by tourists, with the offers extended ranging from the euphemistic ‘massage’ to ‘boom-boom’ or other specific services sometimes conveyed awkwardly using Western slang terms. The majority (if not all) of women offering their bodies for sale on the streets are likely forced to do so out of poverty. I was propositioned several times during my stay in the city, and in conversation would learn one woman’s particular story, which I will give the benefit of the doubt to the teller assume that it was told truthfully.

I was initially approached by Madam S. on ‘Bar Street’ (a.k.a. ‘Pub Street’) during my first evening in the city. She looked to be in her mid to later 30's, of medium height and build for a Southeast Asian woman and what would be considered average-looking, with her reddish-brown blonde-highlighted hair falling in thin permed ringlets about six inches below her shoulders and her relatively light skin suggesting a mix of Khmer and perhaps Chinese or Vietnamese bloodlines. I politely refused her proposition of…er, some ‘glad-handing’, and she amiably accepts my decision and moves on, though the easy smile that she maintained during our exchange doesn’t quite fit with the hint of sadness that her eyes conveyed. Later that same evening, she came up to me again across from Psar Chaa with a proposition of something she claims to be particularly skilled at, but her choice of verbs, adjectives and slang terms, and the combinations thereof, caused me to raise an eyebrow as I fought the urge to chuckle out loud; I countered her offer with yet another polite refusal, telling her that I'm married and not interested in using her services.

The next evening, I again saw her slowly strolling amid the open-air diners in front of the restaurants that line ‘The Alley’, which parallels Bar Street and caters almost exclusively to visiting tourists. Her expression and slightly downcast gaze seemed to telegraph a sense of sadness, uncertainty and disenchantment, and she appeared to be more consumed with her thoughts than she was interested in her surroundings.  When she saw me, she managed a weak smile and nod of recognition as she headed in my direction. I ask her how things were going, and her hints of a smile quickly faded as she sighed and said that things were not going well; she told me that she had not yet been able to find a willing customer since her arrival in Siem Reap over a week ago. She then asked me if I wanted her to come back to my hotel for a massage. I again respectfully and gently declined her offer, as I didn’t want to bring her any further down than she already appeared to be. (Actually, when I returned to my hotel later that night and stopped at the front desk to retrieve my room key, the male clerk behind the counter leaned forward and asked in a slightly lowered voice if I wanted to a have girl sent up to my room.) I imagined the sense of rejection and isolation that she must have been feeling at that point and really felt bad for her, and did not wanting to simply turn my back on her and coldly walk.

I told her that I was going to grab a beer somewhere, and asked her if she wanted to sit with me and have something to drink, and mentioned that nothing beyond a bit of conversation would occur between us. She agreed to a drink under the established conditions, and led me to a nearby restaurant and bar owned by a local woman that she said she had become somewhat acquainted with since arriving in town. We sat at one of the outdoor tables next to a wooden railing that demarcated that boundary between the restaurant and a similar establishment next door, and right off the bat we began to receive some quizzical, if not suspicious, looks from a middle-aged Caucasian couple seated at the table next to us. When the waitress arrived, I ordered an Angkor Beer and Madam S. decided on a Coke. After a brief moment of somewhat uncomfortable silence (made more so by the continual sideways glances from our neighbors to the left, we began what I figured would be a conversation of casual chit-chat and small talk that soon evolved into a sad recounting (if it is to be believed) of how she ended up offering her body for money on the streets.

She told me that she was from a village that was about a two-hour drive north of Siem Reap. She had been impregnated by a guy who subsequently walked out on her; she decided to keep the baby and raise it with the help of her family members, but had a miscarriage later in the pregnancy. History would later repeat, and she found herself again pregnant with a biological father that refused to stick around; she later gave birth to a daughter and had been raising her at her mother’s house. Given the financial hard times that her family was going through, she made the decision to leave her daughter under the care of her mother and move to Siem Reap. She figured that she would make enough as a prostitute to be able send money home to support her daughter and family, but had yet to be hired by a customer. At that point in her story, her voice began to tremble as tears formed in her eyes; she paused, and with a sniff brushed the corners of her eyes with a fingertip. I told her that I was sorry to hear what she was going through, and she responded with smile and a nervous giggle as if embarrassed that she had let her emotions come to the surface.

As if feeling a bit relieved after venting some of her sadness, her mood seemed to suddenly become more upbeat. She talked of her hope that through working the street she would meet a well-off Western tourist that would fall in love with her, marry her and take her away to a better life; she added that she hoped it would be an American, because she really wanted to live in America. As if on cue, and leading me to wonder if her tale of woe was in fact truthful or if I was just being played, she then gazed up at me with bedroom eye and a playful smile and asked if I wanted a massage from her. I told her no, and that we were just sitting here talking over a drink because I was showing her a bit of kindness, and that I was not here to negotiate for her services. As I said that to her, I glanced to my left and saw that the couple at the next table had been listening to our conversation, and were giving us dirty looks. By that time, we had finished our drinks and I had figured that it was time to call it a night and return to my hotel, as I would be up early in the morning to watch a sunrise over Angkor Wat Temple. I paid our tab and we walked out to the street; at the end of the block, we shook hands and I wished her good luck before we parted company. Our paths never crossed during my subsequent final night is Siem Reap, and I wondered if she had yet to close a deal with her first customer, or if she would soon give up and head back to her home village and her family empty-handed.

Despite the continual poverty, lingering hardships and ongoing healing of wounds (both physical and emotional) for the Cambodian people in the aftermath of the Khmer Rouge and years of civil war, I found Cambodia to be a beautiful and fascinating country, and the Cambodian people to be warm, friendly and very welcoming to the traveler interested in their rich history and culture.

Saturday, December 15, 2012

Rangoon’s (Yangon's) Central Fish Wholesale Market

During my fourth visit to Rangoon, Burma (Yangon, Myanmar) back in March of 2009, I thought that it would be interesting to get up early and head down to the waterfront to check out Rangoon’s Central Fish Wholesale Market (a.k.a. San Pya Fish Market), which is situated on the banks of the Rangoon River in west Rangoon near the intersection of Kyee Myin Daing Kannar Road and Nat Sin Road. The fishing boats that supply the markets begin pulling up to the dock as early as 2 AM and unload their cargo of fish, which is dumped on to the concrete floor and sorted into 'export' and 'domestic' categories; freshwater fish on ice from the surrounding countryside would also start arriving by truck about the same time. The export quality fish is placed on ice and processed for foreign sale, and the domestic quality fish is moved into a series of warehouses where it is displayed for local sale to restaurants and the vendors that sell in the various open and wet markets in and around Rangoon. I got there about 4:50 AM and found the market to be very busy and quite noisy given the shouts of both sellers and buyers as transactions were negotiated. In addition to witnessing the activities around the loading dock and in the enclosed warehouses, it’s also interesting to stroll amid the aisles between the warehouses and the sidewalks and alleys around the market, where small-time vendors do their business seated upon blankets spread out on the concrete and tarmac, with their small assortment of inventory for the day, sometimes little more than perhaps a dozen fish and a few bowls of shrimp, illuminated by candlelight and small battery-powered florescent lamps in the pre-dawn gloom; also in attendance are a number of food, drink and betel nut vendors set up on the sidewalks and beneath tarpaulin canopies to serve the myriad customers that flock to the market. If you’re planning a visit there, note that things can get a bit grungy, so you'll want to wear some clothes that you don't mind getting a bit soiled (in the haze diffused light of sunrise afterwards, I did noticed some dried muddy splashes of fish run-off on my shorts and sandals from some close calls with quickly-moving wheeled fish carts, and did get bumped a time or two by a passing wet wicker basket of fish), and you will definitely smell like fish by the end of your visit. If you're looking to experience some real local color off the beaten tourist path while in Rangoon, the central fish wholesale market might be just the ticket for you.



















For more on Burma/Myanmar, see my post The Upside of Food Poisoning in Bagan, Myanmar (Pagan, Burma), where staying back at the hotel and taking it easy while recovery from a bout of food poisoning in Bagan Myothit  and a chance encounter with a local artisan in an open field across the road that took me under his wing would result in a very memorable day and evening of experiencing the town and its environs like a local.

Update 11-23-17:

I had heard that the Yangon Central Fish Wholesale Market had relocated, and have recently learned that the new location is on Htee Tan Road in Alone Township, not far South from Nat Sin Road (hat tip to Crystal at Travelers' Choice to Burma).

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Outdoor Vendors near Mandalay’s Zeigyo Central Market

When planning a visit to the historic city of Mandalay, Burma (Myanmar), one should definitely allow time in the itinerary to witness the hustle and bustle amid the morning outdoor produce, spice and dried/fermented fish and meat vendors that line the streets near the Zeigyo Central Market building (west of 84th Street between 26th and 28th Road). For me, it was far more interesting, colorful and much more memorable than the stroll through more sedate indoor general household and dry goods portion of the market, which could be skipped without missing much if one’s time is limited. The market was still quite active when I arrived at 7:30 am, with very few other foreign tourists to be seen (due the lack of available time in their tour packages, according to my guide). Given the coolness of the morning air, most of the vendor women improvise turbans out of scarves, shawls, towels and the like for warmth which, together with their colorful longyis, the swirls, streaks and sometimes intricate patterns of dried yellow thanaka paste (a natural combination sunblock, astringent and moisturizer made from the ground wood of the thanaka tree) applied to their cheeks, and non-matching flannel shirts, makes many of them look like hill tribe members, though some in the market actually appear to be from the Shan, Karen and Pa-O minority tribes based on their ethnic clothing. The sights, aromas (a earthy mix of ripe produce, spices, dried shrimp and fermented fish paste), and the echoing of the hawkers’ calls mixed with the din of stall-side negotiations gives the open market it's charm, and makes it an experience not to be missed.

















For more on Burma/Myanmar, see my post The Upside of Food Poisoning in Bagan, Myanmar (Pagan, Burma), where staying back at the hotel and taking it easy while recovery from a bout of food poisoning in Bagan Myothit  and a chance encounter with a local artisan in an open field across the road that took me under his wing would result in a very memorable day and evening of experiencing the town and its environs like a local.

Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Singapore’s Pulau Ubin (Ubin Island)


Rustic Malay-styled Village House on Singapore's Pulau Ubin

Pulau Ubin (Ubin Island) provides the visitor with a glimpse of Singapore’s former ‘kampong’ (village) heritage, and a welcomed break from the high-rise towers, HBD flats, shopping malls and busy streets that characterize much of Singapore. Located in the Strait of Johor between the northeastern tip of Singapore and the Malaysian state of Johor, Pulau Ubin may be just the day trip to take for those who have been in this most modern and developed of Southeast Asian cities long enough that they crave a little breather from all the hustle, bustle, stylish concrete & glass high-rise office towers and hotels, clusters of government-subsidized multistoried HDB (Housing Development Board) residential flats, and rows of fashionable shopping malls. Pulau Ubin is Singapore done ‘old-school’, a throwback to the kampong (village) days before the city-state became an international center for commerce and finance, and one of the ‘Four Asian Tigers’. The quaint, often stilted wooden houses and old plantations, together with the natural splendor and laid-back attitude, will clear the mind, soothe the soul and recharge one’s batteries for another round of shopping and world-class yet affordable eating at the myriad hawker centers back in the ‘Lion City’. According to local folklore, the island came into being as the result of a challenge between a frog, a pig, and an elephant. They decided to see who could be the first to swim across the Strait of Johor from Singapore to Malaysia, with the losing animals turning into stone; all three animals failed to make it across, with the pig and the elephant becoming Pulau Ubin and the frog becoming Pulau Sekudu (Frog Island). The 1880’s saw the arrival of settlers from Johor and the establishment of a thriving Malay community on the island. Pulau Ubin means ‘Granite Island’ in Malay, and with the arrival of the British on the island came the quarrying of granite, though fishing and farming were the primary occupations of the islanders; the quarries have long since closed, and visitors are barred from access due to safety concerns. The island is home to the Outward Bound Singapore center for outdoor education and leadership development, and the National Police Cadet Corps (NPCC). 

The island is reached from the Changi Point Ferry Terminal jetty (located near the northwest corner of Singapore's Changi International Airport, near the mouth of the Sungai Changi River) via bumboat, with a one-way ticket for the 10 minute trip running SNG $2.50, and the boats leaving once 12 passengers are aboard. I was the first one aboard the next bumboat in line to depart for the island, which was tied backed-up to the jetty so that passengers board and depart from the stern. The aged and well-weathered boat was painted a dull rust color, with a wide medium-light blue stripe painted some distance above the waterline that narrowed and arched upwards near the bow and continued up the raised bow beam that extended upward at an angle above the deck (a common feature seen on boats around Southeast Asia), with the blue paint mostly chipped off near the vicinity of the deck to reveal bare off-white primer. There was a length of covered cabin provided for the ferried passengers, with opposing bench seats running the length of the cabin, with addition uncovered room for passengers (and perhaps some passengers' bicycles) on the rear deck behind the cabin surrounded by some railing. Some additional passengers came aboard after I did, though after several minutes had passed without seeing any prospective customers come out onto the dock and head in our direction, the pilot opted to make the short journey out to Pulau Ubin with less than twelve passengers. Motoring beyond the mouth of the Sungai Changi ('Sungai' being the word for river in the Bahasa Malaysian language), we made our way out into the Strait on a roughly west-northwest heading en route to the Ubin Village jetty, passing orderly lines of sailboats anchored just off the near shore, with a number of anchored kelongs (floating wooden platforms equipped with houseboat-like living accommodations and attached net or mesh-enclosed open pens used for fish farming - a common sight in coastal Southeast Asia) seen in the distance. 

Ma Zu Altar 'Mother Goddess' Shrine Near the Pulau Ubin Visitors Center
Scarecrow Near the Sensory Trail
Scene on the Sensory Trail
Old Building Seen Biking Around Pulau Ubin


Chinese Temple Shrine
Thai Temple Shrine
Walking off to the right as you step off the jetty, you will soon find a small Pulau Ubin Visitors Center with photos and diagrams of the flora and fauna to be found on the island, and across from it near the water's edge at the base of a tree sits the Ma Zu Altar, or 'Mother Goddess' shine, where it was said that seafaring folks and fishermen would pray before her for safety during their journeys. Continuing on and heading left at the island police station, you will see the Sensory Trail, which leads you past specimens of various fruit trees, spices, herbs, traditional medicinal plants and native plants of the mangrove forest (and in my case, a large monitor lizard a bit over two feet in length at the base of a tree). Heading northwest of the jetty along Jalan Ubin past the bike rentals and restaurants, you’ll see the wayang stage used for Chinese operas and some small Buddhist and Confucius shrines, and a bit further on there is also a Thai temple at the north end of Jalan Wat Siam. 

Malaysian-Style Homes on Pulau Ubin






Old Stilted House in the Jungle Off the Paved Road


Pulau Ubin's 'Old-School Singapore' Kampung Vibe
Following Jalan Ubin to the right will take you past a small lagoon flanked by palms, soon to be replaced by more lush jungle-like environs dotted with old ‘kampong’ houses reflecting Malay influences. Continuing north, you can take a right at the junction with Jalan Durian and reach the gravel and dirt roads to Chek Jawa, or you can go straight onto Jalan Sam Heng which soon becomes Jalan Mamam and leads to the Mamam Beach Campgrounds, with the dirt trail to the left at the end of the road leading to some mangroves along a creek that empties into the Strait. Pulau Ubin’s wildlife, natural beauty, old kampong houses and its religious shrines & temples are best enjoyed on two wheels, and bikes of varying quality can be rented for a full or half-day from one of several shops located near the jetty (SNG$2 – 20). There are a few paved roads on the island, though most roads are graveled or dirt; there are mountain biking trail of varying degrees of difficulty on the island. Since my visit to the island, the Ketam Mountain Bike Park, located around the fringe of a quarry on Pulau Ubin, has opened. The 45-hectare park contains 10km of mountain bike trails, consisting of tracks with the 3 out of 5 IMBA ratings and both Dirt Skills and Freeride Skills Parks. There are a limited number of vehicles on the island, but vans or taxis can be hired for touring the island’s attractions if one does not intend on doing any biking.

Chek Jawa Wetlands Coastal Loop Boardwalk
Pulau Ubin is home to the Chek Jawa Wetlands, one of Singapore’s richest ecosystems where six major habitats meet and mix. A visit to the Chek Jawa Visitor Center is a ‘must-do’ while on the island. Chek Jawa is an intertidal area, and is best viewed at low tides of 0.5 meters and below, hence tide tables need to be consulted when planning a visit. The visitors center (8.30am - 6.00pm) includes a viewing jetty, over 1 km of boardwalk comprised of Mangrove and Coastal Loops, and the 21-meter Jejawi Tower located along the Mangrove Loop. Chek Jawa can be reached by hired car, bike or a roughly 40-minute walk from the Pulau Ubin jetty; note that vehicles and bikes must park at a lot located some distance away, and then continue to the center on foot along a wooded trail for about 5 minutes. The Mangrove Loop was interesting, with the sounds of insect, frog and bird calls overlaying the crackling of air bubbles beneath the arched roots and aerial tubes of the mangrove trees at low tide. As for places to sit back and simply chill out on the island, Noordin Beach and Mamam Beach would be likely candidates for hangout spots if one’s aim is relaxation and decompression amid relative peace and quiet (save for the occasional whine of high-bypass turbofans heralding the approach of an inbound flight to Changi) after several hectic days of sightseeing around Singapore. For those who place a premium on communing with nature, Chek Jawa Wetlands is the best place for you to hangout while on the island. A good resource for finding more information on Pulau Ubin and on other areas in Singapore where one can enjoy the great outdoors can be found here: http://www.nparks.gov.sg/cms/

Mangrove Near Mamam Beach, North Pulau Ubin

One thing that was quite interesting during my visit to the island was watching some Outward Bound Singapore grade school-aged youth being given jungle survival training near the Mamam Beach campground in the north. The instructor was a retired ‘Straits Indian’ Singaporean who spent 35 years as a commando in the SAF Spec-Ops Group, training other SAF and visiting foreign commandos in jungle survival. The tattooed, powerfully-built gentleman was passionate about passing on skills and shared wisdom to local kids, whom he felt spend too much time with video games and in shopping malls. He first demonstrated, in a loud Drill Instructor manner sometimes sprinkled with a bit of colorful language, how to kill, clean and prepare a live frog to the assembled group of squeamish and groaning Singaporean school kids. His most memorable quote came while he was detailing the locations and sequence of knife cuts required to maximize the amount of useable meat from a frog carcass: “Remember, if you do this right…you get meat! And if you do this wrong…you get bloody sh*t! And…YOU CAN’T EAT BLOODY SH*T!!!” After finishing with his demonstrator frog, he asked for a volunteer from the audience to come to the front and be walked through the killing and cleaning process with a second live frog. When nobody stepped forward, he pointed to a Singaporean girl of about 15 years of age wearing Muslim head-covering in the first row to be part of the demonstration. “NOOO!!!”, she squealed loudly. “TOO BLOOD-DEE, LAH!!!” After the laughter of her fellow classmates died down, the instructor let her off the hook and performed the task on the second frog himself, after which he proceeded to demonstrate two different methods for manually starting a fire without a flame source using items from a fire-starting kit similar to the one that all of the classes students had been issued. I would later meet up with the instructor and his students again as I biked from Mamam Beach to the Chek Jawa Visitor Center, and had a chance to chat briefly with the instructor while his students were given a short break.

Restaurants and Bike Rental Shops Near the Main Jetty at Ubin Village

Pulau Ubin is revered by the local for its fresh and delicious seafood that can be enjoyed in a laid-back setting at prices lower that those found on the ‘big island’. Though I did not get a chance to sample any of the restaurants on the island (my only meal taking the form of some energy bars and an isotonic sports drink while biking the trails), a number of them are located in the island’s main village along Jalan Ubin (Road) among the bicycle rental shops to the left of the jetty. The ones I glanced at were Cheong Lian Yuen, Ubin First Stop and Season Live Seafood. Ubin First Stop (#42 Jalan Ubin, 11AM – 10PM; closed Wednesdays) is said to be popular and quite good, serving up Chinese, seafood classics like black pepper crab and even some local specialties including wild boar. Season Live Seafood (#59E Jalan Ubin) is located near the water’s edge, with a view of Singapore across the Strait and outdoor seating beneath a large protective canopy for those daily Singapore downpours.

Season Restaurant, Offering a View Across the Strait of Johor
I left the island by late-afternoon, so I can’t really talk to what nightlife Pulau Ubin has to offer. I don’t recall seeing any bars or KTV joints on the island, so the evening’s entertainment would likely be limited to enjoying some beers and fresh seafood with some good company at one of the restaurants in the jetty area until they close for the evening (presumably at 10PM, if Ubin First Stop Restaurant is any indication). If restaurants are the full extent of nightlife on the island, I’d say one could probably do much worse than snagging an outdoor table at Season Live Seafood to enjoy a nice sunset, then hanging around until they shut the lights off and kick everyone out. I neglected to see how late the bumboats back to Singapore run, which could put limits the sampling of Pulau Ubin’s nightlife for ‘day-trippers’.

Looking Across the Strait of Johor to Singapore, Pulau Ubin
Though I only did a day trip to Pulau Ubin, there are some accommodations available if one wants to spend the night on the island. Celestial Resort (previously called Ubin Lagoon Resort) is located in the southwest of the island. Referred to as ‘rustic’ and not rated highly on the web, perhaps low expectations are in order; the rate for two people is quoted as SNG $98 (weekday)/SNG $118 (weekend). Ubin Lodge is said to now be open to the public. Located behind the island police station (coast guard police post) and about a 5-minute walk from the jetty, the chalets were formerly used by civil servants and said to offer a taste of Singapore circa 1960; no info is available, as their web site is currently down for construction. There are three campsites available on the island (Noordin Beach, Mamam Beach and Jelutong Campsite) with no permit required; campers are advised to drop by the Ubin NParks Info Kiosk (at the Jetty) on arrival. Noordin Beach is also said to be quite nice.

The View Looking East from Pulau Ubin Village
Restaurant in Pulau Ubin Village Near the Jetty
Local Kids Near the Bicycle Rental Shops on Pulau Ubin

If one’s travel plans will put them in Singapore for a few days, a half-day spent out on Pulau Ubin is well-worth considering, as it allows a visitor to get a sense of Singapore’s humble beginnings and traditional village-like heritage, and perhaps give the credit cards a little rest.